How to Buy Diamonds

• Learn as much as you can about diamonds through websites and other sources. You can also browse through our diamond education link on this website. The forums listed on our website such as diamonds will enable you to learn by interacting with other people with similar queries.

• Decide which properties of Diamond are most important to you. Write down, in order of importance, which of the 5C's are your priority: Cost, Carat, Color, Clarity or Cut. When we show people two stones with similar properties, one a bit smaller with a better cut and the other a bit bigger, but not as good a cut, they will usually prefer the better cut. Jewelers may also help you to make out the differences affecting your choice.

• Finding out the market price for your diamond is the next step. You can compare prices of diamonds but one has to remember that only similar diamonds can be compared with each other. This is because even a slight change in grading and weight can increase or decrease the price. There are also price differences which come as a result of certified and non-certified diamonds.

• Asking for a certificate is the next step. The Gemological Institute of America or better known as GIA is the most well recognized body in this field. But confusions have to be avoided when it comes down to appraisals and certificates, which are both provided by the GIA Gemologist. The EGL or the European Gemological Laboratory is one of the most recognized non-GIA laboratories. But you must beware of fake certification or no-name certification, or no brand name certification. This might result in you getting much less than what you had expected. Each lab has its own independent procedures for certification, and grading. But if you have more doubts to clarify you can do so on the diamond chat forum.

• Look for matching Color and Clarities based on your preferences. In other words, don't buy a High Color/Low Clarity or High Clarity/Low Color Diamond. Some questions pop up immediately. Why pay a premium for an Ideal Cut Diamond, and then accept a lower color and clarity? You pay a serious premium for getting say an E Color Diamond. What's the purpose of paying that premium and then buying an SI2 Diamond? Why not revert to a lower color shade and increase one or two clarities? This practice of asking questions enables you to make better choices.

Identifying a Well Cut Diamond:
In defining the best cut, personal preference will always be an issue. So the listed category Well Cut, Very Good, Excellent & Ideal assists you in selecting the right diamond. Ideal cut has the narrowest range, with Excellent and Very Good following later. The lowest score becomes the overall cut grade. The lowest assigned grade for any individual characteristic is always used. For e.g. If the table percentage falls within excellent and yet the depth percentage is in the very good range, the diamond is classified as Very Good.

Every shape of diamonds does not have the same proportions. Every diamond shape requires its own guidelines in order to achieve maximum beauty. Due to mathematical differences, inherent in different shapes, the table and depth guidelines are formulated to maximize fire & brilliance. This is done to have a magnificent display that highlights the individuality and character of each shape.

Girdle:
The girdle is the outer edge of a diamond. It usually has a frosted appearance. Many diamonds are also finished with a fully polished or even a faceted girdle. This characteristic does not affect the value of a diamond and is often more a reflection the diamond cutter's preference. The girdle is rated in terms of thickness. Girdle size is generally defined as Extremely Thin, Very Thin, Thin, Medium, Slightly Thick, Thick, Very Thick, or Extremely Thick. The girdle can also be described as a range of these terms such as Thin to Thick. Avoid the two Extremes. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a girdle that is neither Extremely Thin nor Extremely Thick.

Culet:
The culet is the bottom point of the diamond. In many cases this point actually has a very small facet. The culet is referred to in terms that relate to the presence or size of this facet. The culet is generally graded as None or Pointed, Very Small, Small, Medium, Slightly Large, Large, Very Large, and Extremely Large. Smaller is more desirable.

Polish:
This characteristic refers to the finishing or final polishing of the facets, or flat surfaces. Contrary to common belief, diamonds are ground and polished, not chipped away, until they reach their final form. Each facet should be carefully fashioned by the diamond cutter to shine and be free from polishing imperfections. The polish of a diamond is generally defined as Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, or Excellent. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a polishing grade of Good or above.

Symmetry:
This characteristic refers to the alignment and positioning of the facets, or flat surfaces. Each facet should be carefully positioned by the diamond cutter in proper proportion and relationship to the other facets. The alignment of each facet should be sharp and precise; improperly joined facet junctions can make a diamond appear uneven. The symmetry of a diamond is generally defined as Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, or Excellent. When purchasing a diamond, select one with a symmetry grade of Good or above.

Fluorescence:
This characteristic refers to the diamond's ability to fluoresce under ultraviolet light. When exposed to UV light, many diamonds will give off a distinctive glowing blue coloration. Although fluorescence may be displayed in various shades, blue is the most common in diamonds. The fluorescence of a diamond is defined by its intensity as either None, Faint, Medium, Strong, or Very Strong. Most of the time fluorescence isn't an issue unless the intensity is Strong or Very Strong. In the very high colors D, E, and F, Strong fluorescence is considered less desirable. Ironically, in slightly lower colors of J and below, Strong fluorescence is desirable.

WHAT IS A "DIAMOND CERTIFICATE"?
It is easy to make a mistake and purchase a Diamond of lower value, believing it to be of higher value. Thus it is of utmost importance to understand the purpose of a Certificate.

A Diamond Certificate can be defined as a statement, issued by an independent Gemological Laboratory, that at the time of evaluation, the Diamond in question has been examined by experienced Diamond Graders, using various gemological instruments, and determined to contain the characteristics as stated in the Certificate. While discussing the various elements contained in the certificate, it is important to state which gemological instruments were used to evaluate the specific diamonds under discussion. Evaluation of a diamond is important because minute, microscopic inclusions, of a Diamond can have a major influence on the price.
We cannot ascertain the value of a diamond without proper certification. GIA is the name to be considered when it comes to certification. The IGI or the International Gemological Institute is another certifying body .IGI is acclaimed to be the world's largest independent laboratory for testing and grading gemstones and fine jewelry.

Properties included in Diamond Reports:

Certificate Number:
IGI uses the terminology "Diamond Identification Report" although it is recognized as a certificate . Every lab has a certificate (or "report") number, which identifies a diamond uniquely. The Lab keeps an internal copy of everything shown on the certificate, and also additional information. The certificates can thus be re-issued when they are lost.

Shape and Cut:
Shapes can be categorized as Round, Pear, Heart, Oval, etc...Cutting Styles can be categorized as Brilliant, Marquise, Emerald, Princess, Step and Mixed.

Measurements : Measurements of the Diamond's diameter are calculated to the hundredth of a millimeter by a non-contact measuring device or a micrometer which is defined as " minimum - maximum x depth ".

Carat size:
Diamonds are weighed to the thousandth of a carat with a digital measuring device. On the Report, the weight is rounded off to the hundredth of a carat.

Proportions:
The proportions of the diamond can be the summed up as its depth, and its table .Both are expressed as percentage figures. Depth percent refers to the percentage depth of the Diamond, measured from the table to the culet, relative to the width of the stone.

The Table of a Diamond refers to its largest facet, which is the main part of the Diamond you look at when the stone is face-up. Table percent refers to the table size expressed as a percentage of the Diamond's average width. These ratios determine how well a diamond has been cut.

Girdles:
The Girdle of a Diamond is the border between the crown, or uppermost part of the stone and the pavilion, and bottom part of the stone. Girdle thickness is usually expressed as a range since it can vary from thin in one part to thick in another part of the diamond. The girdle can also be faceted. A faceted girdle usually enhances the look of the stone, and includes polished facets into the girdle. Below are example Girdle Thicknesses.

Culet:
The Culet of a Diamond is the facet on the pointed lower part of the Diamond. Its existence helps prevent chipping. Some diamonds don't have a Culet.

Finish , Polish & Symmetry:
Finish expresses the polish of a Diamond and the symmetrical , and evenness, in the placement of the facets. Polish refers to the quality of the polish given on the facets. An excellent polish shows the care and precision of the Diamond cutter. Symmetry refers to how precisely the facets are aligned to each other.

Clarity:
Clarity ranges from the best grade of IF, down through VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, and I2 until I3. Clarity expresses the number, size, placement and nature of inclusions and/or surface irregularities on the Diamond. The experienced Diamond Grader at IGI examines the Diamond with the aid of an IGI-Microscope, which aids in identifying the nature of inclusions, and finding pinpoints (very, very tiny crystals inside the Diamond). The actual grade is decided only on what is visible under a 10X magnifier.

Color:
Color ranges from the best grade of D, down to Z. After Z we approach the Fancy Color diamonds. Color grades are determined by comparing the diamond with a set of excellent grade stones under special lighting.

Fluorescence:
Fluorescence refers to a diamonds reaction when exposed to long wave ultraviolet radiations. Too much fluorescence can make a Diamond less desirable.

Plot:
A Plot is a graphical representation of the imperfections present in the Diamond. Every diamond has unique characteristics like fingerprints. By plotting its characteristics, and combining this with the physical measurements of a Diamond, a Lab can uniquely identify each stone. This plot is a guideline for the Grader in the event that a customer returns to the Lab and requests verification on his diamond purchase. Internal characteristics are plotted in red, and external characteristics are plotted in green.

Comments:
Comments are used to describe characteristics which are not discussed elsewhere on the certificate, or to mention the items not plotted or shown. For example, "insignificant external details are not shown" is one of the common comments.

Difference between a Diamond certificate and an appraisal

A Diamond Certificate is a document issued by a Gemological Laboratory describing a Loose Diamond. The laboratory will not issue certificates on Diamonds which are set in a mounting. A Diamond Certificate issues a "grade" indicating the physical properties of the Diamond "at the time of evaluation". Furthermore a certificate is a document which retains its value over a long period of time, assuming the Diamond does not chip or is not otherwise altered.

Appraisals are often used for insurance purposes. An appraisal indicates the dollar value of the piece under consideration. Appraisals are often over-estimated, and are therefore a very poor estimation of price.

The need of the hour is to differentiate between a GIA GTL (Gem Trade Lab) Grader, and a GIA G.G . or Graduate Gemologist. Many assume that getting an appraisal by a GIA gemologist is the same as getting a GIA Certificate. The GTL (Gem Trade Lab) Grader is a GIA employee who performs the Diamond Grading for the Institute. A GIA Graduate Gemologist, on the other hand, has simply passed the GIA Diamonds and Colored Stone course.